Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
